Cartier Panthère SM

Launched in 1983, the Panthère de Cartier took the architectural vocabulary of the Santos and reworked it into something more supple, more jewel-like, more suited to the wrist of a Parisienne crossing the Pont des Arts at dusk. The reference 1120 in the Panthère SM (Small Model) configuration became one of the defining ladies' Cartiers of the late 1980s and 1990s, produced in steel and gold two-tone and equally at home with eveningwear or a tailored coat. Its proportions remain unmistakable, a Maison piece of quiet authority.

This particular example is the SM at 22mm, with a steel case complemented by 18k yellow gold bezel and crown, powered by the calibre 157 quartz movement. The dial is cream with painted Roman numerals, a chemin-de-fer minute track and the familiar blued sword hands, anchored by a sapphire blue cabochon on the crown. It is presented on a brown leather strap with Cartier folding clasp, lending the watch a softer, more couture character than the original bracelet execution.

The case shows minor signs of wear consistent with regular use. Professional polishing can be arranged free of charge upon request. The dial remains clean and even in tone, with crisp printing and no notable flaws to the Roman numerals or minute track. The gold bezel retains its warm hue, and the blued hands are sharp against the cream backdrop. The leather strap shows honest traces of use.

What genuinely sets this Panthère apart is its completeness. The watch comes as a full collector's set, including the outer box, inner box, original warranty card and accompanying brochures, the kind of provenance increasingly difficult to assemble on a Panthère of this generation.