Cartier Santos Carrée "Burgundy"

Seventy-five years after Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the house marked the anniversary by adding a burgundy dial to the vintage Cartier Santos Carrée, reference 2960. The reference was normally fitted with a white dial, which makes the burgundy version the exception rather than the rule. Carrée is French for square, a nod to the straight-lugged case that flows directly into its integrated steel bracelet. Cartier launched the Santos Carrée line in the 1980s, and the 2960 is its large-cased model.

This 1980s example carries its original burgundy lacquer dial, marked Swiss only. Hands and a date window sit against the deep colour, and a red cabochon on the crown repeats it at the edge of the case. Inside the 29 x 41 mm stainless steel case is Cartier calibre 077, an automatic movement built on the ETA 2671 base. At 29 mm across, this is the men's reference. The watch is offered as a full set with its box and papers, and it matches an example recently sold at auction in Monaco for outstanding 65,000 Swiss francs.

The dial is the strongest part of this watch. Its lacquer is perfect and fully intact, with no cracking anywhere. Wear elsewhere is light and confined to the side that meets the wrist. The case back shows light surface marks, and some residue or discolouration sits between the bracelet links on the underside. These are honest marks of use, all on the hidden side of a watch whose dial has stayed perfect.

The integrated steel bracelet closes on a brushed steel Cartier folding clasp.