Cartier Stepped Tank or Pre-Must

In the period preceding the formal launch of the Must de Cartier line in 1977, Cartier produced a fascinating group of gold-plated, manually wound Tank watches that sit in an interesting transitional space within the brand's catalog. Often referred to as Pre-Must Tanks, these references retained the elegant proportions and refined dial work of the Paris-made pieces while introducing the gold electroplated case construction that would define the Must era. The stepped case variant, with its subtle architectural shoulders flanking the dial, remains one of the more characterful executions from this period.

This particular example, reference 25716, dates to the mid 1970s and is presented in its original gold-plated stepped case measuring 28mm. The cream dial features classic black Roman numerals, the Cartier signature beneath twelve, and the discreet minute railroad track that defines the model's visual identity.

The case shows small scratches consistent with age and gentle wear, with the gold plating remaining attractive and even across the stepped flanks. The original cream dial has aged into a soft warm tone and carries a small chip, which is honest and visible on close inspection but does not disrupt the overall balance of the layout. The original blued steel hands remain in place and read crisply against the aged dial. The mineral crystal is clean, and the manually wound movement runs as expected.

The watch is fitted on a grey lizard-pattern leather strap, well suited to the dressy character of the case. No box or papers accompany the watch.