Cartier Tank Moonphase

A ring of small date numerals runs just inside the Roman numerals of this vintage Cartier Tank Louis Cartier, reference 8190. A third central hand reads it, pointing to the date around the dial. Add a moonphase, and the result is the watch dealers list as the Cartier Tank Moonphase, or Phase de Lune. The case outline goes back to 1917, when Louis Cartier drew the Tank after the Renault FT-17 of the First World War, and the first public example went to General Pershing in 1918. In the 8190 that outline is rendered in 18k yellow gold around a quartz movement, and the moon is set through a recessed pusher that calls for a setting tool.

This example belongs to the larger of the two sizes in which the reference appears, and at 23 x 30 mm it is the men's version. The cream dial is fitted with Roman numerals and matching hands, with the pointer date ring sitting just inside the numerals. A blue cabochon is set into the crown. It is offered as a full set with its original box and papers.

The wear on this piece is concentrated on the strap. Its lining is creased and darkened with staining, most of all toward the tail end, and the edges show wear with slight fraying, the marks of a strap that has been fastened day after day. The brushed case back carries light surface marks.

The watch is worn on a black leather strap closing with a yellow-gold-tone Cartier folding deployant clasp.